(Continued from Part One, here...)

Author's Note: No website or company has paid a fee to be mentioned in this blog. Any suggestions you see are based solely on our own experiences and personal preferences. All prices have been converted to USD using a rate of 20:1. All the information is for educational purposes only and should not be considered legal advice. Please help support our travel blog by purchasing this guide, which is only $1.99 and available everywhere, including Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and Kobo. ​

Relaxing by the pool, beach hopping and exploring the region’s unique culinary delights may be the staples of living in Puerto Escondido.

​Still, they’re far from the only things to keep you occupied. In fact, it wouldn’t be a stretch to say that this part of Mexico stands up to just about anywhere in the world when it comes to the variety of activities on offer and the number of interesting places to explore. 
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Some things, especially the natural attractions, are seasonal, while others can be done year-round. There’s also a thriving community of expats and locals that are constantly organizing small-scale events and running courses or workshops, most of which can be found on public Facebook and WhatsApp groups. We’ll also discuss some of the best things to do in the surrounding areas, which are a nature lover’s delight, and leave you with some handy insider tips that will help you to beat the crowds and plan according to any budget.

The climate and geography of the region ensure that it is dotted with both fresh and saltwater lagoons. These places are hotspots for biodiversity. Their mangrove ecosystems play host to a wide array of species, including crocodiles and many other reptiles, a stunning variety of birds, and all manner of fish and different marine life. However, an even smaller creature makes these lagoons famous - plankton, the tiny creatures that are the foundation of marine ecosystems. What makes these ones so special is the fact that they create bioluminescence.

While it’s true that many species of plankton can do this, the lagoons in this area are filled with high concentrations of these little critters, making them one of the best places in the world to experience this incredible phenomenon firsthand.
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The closest lagoon to Puerto Escondido where you can do this is Manialtepec, just a short 15 minutes drive away. There are many tour companies in the city that offer bioluminescence trips, which take place exclusively at night as this is when you can actually see the plankton glowing. Most also offer daytime tours for kayaking, paddleboarding, birdwatching and nature excursions.

​As we’ve already mentioned, Puerto Escondido is considered the "surf capital" of Mexico. Whether you’re a seasoned rider of waves or would just like to stand up on a board at least once in your life, you’ll find plenty of opportunities here.

​There are also many freelance instructors advertising their services online and hanging around the beaches. You can also rent boards by the hour or for the entire day once you’re comfortable going out on your own.

Who doesn’t love sea turtles? I think we all know the answer to that question is NOBODY. Yet not everybody is comfortable in the water or with the idea of going snorkeling or scuba diving to seek them out. Fortunately, anyone can experience the magic of turtles in this part of the world. There are several beaches where you can go to release baby turtles, whose nests need to be protected from poachers, into the wild. It’s a truly incredible experience and a vital counterbalancing act that increases these threatened creatures’ chances of survival. It’s also a family-friendly activity that requires no physical exertion and is fun for people of all ages. 

There are a couple of tour operators that offer turtle releases on beaches outside of Puerto Escondido, but the simplest (and cheapest) option is just to head to Playa Bacocho where releases take place most days at 5 PM (depending on whether a new batch of baby turtles is hatching that day or not) at the Vive Mar Turtle Camp. It only costs $5 per person, all of which goes towards keeping the operation running. There is a short talk in Spanish and English before the actual release takes place to teach you how to handle the turtles properly and explain a bit about them, the threats they face and what is being done to protect them.

There are seven species of sea turtles in existence and four of them nest on the Oaxacan coastline. The most prominent by far, however, is the Olive Ridley turtle. In fact, this area is the single most important nesting site in the world for this species, with the annual nesting season seeing over 4.6 million females dragging themselves out of the water to lay their eggs at the two largest nesting sites alone. 
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One of these is a long stretch of beach just under an hour’s drive from Puerto Escondido called Playa Escobilla. The prime nesting season is July - January, where on a day of high activity it’s possible to see tens of thousands of turtles on the beach at any given moment. The cost to enter the sanctuary is $15, which all goes towards maintaining the sanctuary. You’re led by a guide who both gives you interesting information and ensures that you observe the event without disturbing the turtles as you walk among them and watch them lay their eggs from just inches away.

The amazing experiences with marine life don’t have to stop there either! If there is one group of marine animals that is even more beloved than turtles it’s that of the cetaceans, which consists of whales, dolphins and porpoises. Puerto Escondido offers year-round opportunities to see and, when possible, swim with dolphins. The most prominent species in the area are Spinner and Bottlenose dolphins, while it’s also common to swim with turtles and even see them mating in certain seasons. On a lucky day, you might even get to see Orcas/Killer Whales or any number of other less commonly occurring species.
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The Oaxacan coastline is also the southernmost point on the annual migration of Humpback whales that spend their summers feeding in Alaska and Northern Canada and their winters mating and calving in warmer Mexican waters. While there aren’t quite as many whales as you find around the Baja California Peninsula and the season is shorter due to the extra distance they have to travel to get here (January - March as opposed to December - April), the experience of seeing them breaching, slapping their tails and performing other acrobatic maneuvers is just as breathtaking.

While ocean-based activities may be the main attraction in this part of the world, ignoring the glorious tropical landscape and rural delights that surround Puerto Escondido would be a crying shame.

​While horseback riding and hot springs are not really two things you would instinctively lump together, in this case, they combine perfectly to create a unique and memorable experience that provides a real taste of natural surroundings. 

​After being picked up in town and transported to a start point where some friendly, tame horses are already waiting, you’ll be guided by expert riders up the Manialtepec river to the hot springs that share the same name. 

The ride is a couple of hours long and takes you through rural farmland and areas full of indigenous tropical vegetation that cars cannot access. You’ll cross the calmly flowing Manialtepec river multiple times along the way until you eventually arrive at the beautiful hidden spot where the hot springs are located.
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After you’re satisfied with your time in the springs (a few minutes is usually enough as it’s just as warm outside the water as in it) and have refueled with some snacks, you’ll head back down to the ranch and be back in town in time for lunch, with the entire excursion lasting around 5-6 hours. This activity is perfectly suitable for those with little or no experience riding horses. You can book it with Eco Adventures Puerto Escondido or through a smaller company like Experiencias Nativas, who combine the trip with a visit to see how the locals use traditional methods to make tortillas and cheese. 

We have some guiding principles we like to follow when we travel and one of them is to never pass on the opportunity to visit a good waterfall! Besides the always awe-inspiring sight of tons of water cascading down a sheer rockface, they normally offer great swimming opportunities in lovey freshwater pools and are often found in the most scenic locations.

​La Reforma is no exception. Although it’s only around 25 mi (40km) away from Puerto Escondido, the drive takes a little under two hours from Puerto Escondido due to the windy and often gravely nature of the roads, and a not too difficult 10-15 minute walk once you arrive to reach the waterfall itself. You can also get there by taking a colectivo to San Pedro Mixtepec (ask to be let off at the turnoff for La Reforma) and then hopping on a taxi from there. 

Once you arrive at the over 150ft high falls and paying your around 50 cents (10 pesos) entrance fee, you can enjoy swimming in the rock pools below, relaxing by the water’s edge while taking in the whole majestic setting. For $1.50 you can do this from a comfortable lounger or deckchair. There is a small convenience store close to the entrance but we’d suggest taking your own snacks or packing a picnic basket and making a day of it. 
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If you really want to slow down and take it all in, spend the night at one of the cozy cabanas at La Cascada Encantada (The Enchanted Waterfall), situated right at the entrance, where you can lounge in the pool once you’re done with the falls and enjoy a quiet evening close to nature.

Want to read about living in Puerto Escondido? This post is continued here. 

By Brendon Cammell and M. Serrato

Author's Note: No website or company has paid a fee to be mentioned in this blog. Any suggestions you see are based solely on our own experiences and personal preferences. All prices have been converted to USD using a rate of 20:1. All the information is for educational purposes only and should not be considered legal advice. Please help support our travel blog by purchasing this guide, which is only $1.99 and available everywhere, including Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and Kobo. 

Mexico is one of the most popular travel destinations in the world and a magnet for expats, especially from North American neighbors the USA and Canada. Yet only a small fraction of those who visit or relocate to Mexico ever venture beyond the popular hubs of the Riviera Maya in the east, Baja California Sur in the west, and the capital, Mexico City. While there is plenty to see and do in all three of these regions, Mexico is a vast and stunningly diverse country with so much to offer. There are hidden gems in every one of its 32 states, but few shine more brightly than Puerto Escondido.

Puerto Escondido means “hidden port” in Spanish, which fits neatly into the narrative about it flying under the radar. However, it’s far from a backwater. In fact, it’s considered the surfing capital of Mexico and attracts surfers from all over the world. There are multiple surf shops where you can buy or rent surfboards if you’d like to try surfing one of the many popular beaches.
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This city of around 30,000 inhabitants is located in the state of Oaxaca. It’s a region famous for its diverse and enduring indigenous cultures, fantastic culinary traditions and for being the birthplace of the famous Mexican drink Mezcal. 

Fun fact: Did you know that Mezcal is called the “elixir of the gods”? There are several popular distilleries in Puerto Escondido where you can visit and learn about traditional and ancestral distillation processes and taste dozens of different types of Mezcal. 

Flying to Puerto Escondido: We selected this option because we were a little short on time for this trip and wanted to maximize our exploration days. However, we usually love exploring Mexico by car when time permits as there are so many wonderful small towns and little-known sights that you’d never see any other way. Luckily, our co-author Brendon has traveled to and from Puerto Escondido using just about every mode of transport available and filled us in on the best overland travel options. For now, back to the flights...

Like many tourist towns in Mexico, Puerto Escondido boasts its own small ‘international’ airport. In reality, the vast majority of flights arrive from Mexico City, the central hub that connects most regional airports in Mexico to other states and countries. This makes it a simple enough journey from any place that flies to Mexico’s capital, and that list is long. This means you usually only need to make one layover when flying from most major cities in North America and Europe. 

There are usually upwards of eight flights arriving from Mexico City daily, with four different carriers - namely VivaAerobus, Aeromexico, and Volaris. Flight prices are quite reasonable, with the average ‘light’ fare starting at around $60-80 USD for a return ticket, although this can vary drastically depending on how far in advance you book, the dates you wish to fly, and whether you have any checked baggage or special equipment such as a surfboard or golf clubs.

The flight from Mexico City’s Benito Juarez International Airport to Puerto Escondido takes a shade over an hour, meaning you barely have time to reach cruising altitude before beginning your descent. The only other destination with direct flights to Puerto Escondido International Airport is Guadalajara, however, there are usually no more than a couple each week.

While flying to Puerto Escondido is cheap and straightforward, many travelers prefer to take the overland option so that they can take in some of Mexico’s other unique sites and places along the way (and save a few bucks). Some expats even make the epic road trip from the United States or Canada to bring their cars with them when they relocate. It’s a long drive from the US border to the coast of Oaxaca, but one that allows you to truly see the ‘real’ Mexico. However, that’s another long post all on its own. For now, we’ll be concentrating on getting to Puerto Escondido overland from Mexico City and the also not particularly creatively named state capital of Oaxaca, Oaxaca City.

Traveling by bus: If you’re arriving in Mexico by plane and want to travel overland to Puerto Escondido or just about any other destination, you’ll likely end up traveling primarily on ‘luxury’ intercity busses that zig-zag the country and can get you to most cities and even many towns. For starters, most of these intercity busses are quite comfortable, in many cases more so than their North American and European counterparts.

​You can usually expect air conditioning, a comfortable reclining seat, and a clean onboard restroom at a minimum (after a couple of hours winding through the mountains the restroom may not be quite as ship-shape anymore, but someone will get on to clean it at most stops). Bus tickets are also cheap, with a trip from Mexico City to Oaxaca City costing between $25-50 and Oaxaca city to Puerto Escondido around $30. While this may not sound much cheaper than taking a flight, these prices include virtually unlimited luggage, making them a far more affordable option for those who are traveling with multiple bags.

In total, you’re looking at around 18-19 hours of travel time if you take the bus option, with the Mexico City to Oaxaca City trip taking 6.5-8 hours and the Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido route around 10-11 hours (this bus takes you on a roundabout route that also passes through the city of Salina Cruz). There are many intercity bus companies in Mexico, but by far the largest and most well-known is ADO.

​Almost all the bus lines running on the above-mentioned routes are part of the ADO group. These include ADO Platino (the “fanciest” option), ADO GL (another higher quality option) and the standard but still comfortable ADO and OCC lines.

​These minibuses are generally well maintained, clean, and perfectly safe to use. Just keep in mind that you’ll need to wait for the halfway stop to use a restroom. This route also takes you along an extremely windy mountain road whose near 180° bends will test your sea legs as much as any boat ride.

Traveling by car: If you’re coming to Mexico in your own car or picking up a rental once you arrive, the drive to Puerto Escondido from Oaxaca City will take you along the same windy mountain road that the colectivos use. The drive itself is only 162 mi (260 km) but takes a little over six hours due to the never-ending twists and turns of Highway 131. It might be heavy on the stomach but it’s also extremely easy on the eye. On the way, you’ll pass through the stunningly beautiful mountains and valleys of the fertile Madre Sierra region, taking in everything from high altitude forests to tropical vegetation along the way. Despite the windiness of the road, it is generally well maintained and is considered safe to travel on.

If you’re planning on doing this drive on or after 2022, you’ll be able to take advantage of the new Oaxaca - Puerto Escondido federal highway that has been under construction for several years, with the completion date continually being pushed back. However, the current Mexican administration has promised the people of Oaxaca that it will be completed next year. Its official name is the Barranca Larga-Ventanilla Highway and it will more than halve the travel time from the state capital to the coastline, with the journey expected to take around 2.5 hours in total.

If you’ve read any of our other guides or blogs, you’ll know that we are big fans of Airbnb and self-catering accommodation in general. Not only do you get more bang for your buck than you would from a hotel, but you also get to stay in places that feel more like a home than a sterile receptacle for tourists. Whether you’re searching for a place to live, doing research about relocating or just visiting, self-catering accommodations in houses or apartments can help you to get a real feel for the place you’re visiting.

Like most coastal areas in Mexico frequented by tourists, there are certainly some nice hotels and resorts in Puerto Escondido, however, the self-catering vibe is definitely dominant. 
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We stayed in a place called Suites Casitas and were very happy with our choice. It was within walking distance of several beautiful beaches (more on those later) and had everything we needed for a comfortable stay - including a pool, a beautiful outside area with sitting space, and most importantly a clean and comfortable living area that was suitable for a family. The location was also fantastic. It’s right on the “Rinconada”, the main strip in the area we stayed in, called Bacocho. 

Please note: for a “main strip” it was by no means loud, overly busy, and thronging with drunken tourists. There are plenty of good restaurant options, a couple of bars and multiple laundromats, which we found a little strange as almost everyone seemed to be wearing nothing but swimsuits.
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When choosing a place to stay in Puerto Escondido, you need to take into account not just the kind of accommodation you want to stay in, but which area you’d like to be in as well. While location is important no matter where you are, Puerto Escondido is virtually split in two.

​Zicatela is a lively area that is popular with tourists and locals alike. It takes its name from the awesome 2.2 mi (3.5 km) long Zicatela beach, its defining feature. The word Zicatela means “place of the long thorns” in the indigenous Náhuatl language. There are more food and drink options here than in any other area of Puerto Escondido. It’s also the area with the most B&Bs, hostels and hotels. The prices and quality of accommodation range from backpacker friendly to boutique chic, meaning you’ll encounter an eclectic mix of people as well. 

Head south to the bottom of the beach and you’ll arrive at Punta Zicatela or “La Punta” (the point). With its unpaved streets, vegan restaurants and yoga studios, it’s undoubtedly the “hippy heartland” of Puerto Escondido. If you’re the kind of person who likes to wake up surrounded by tropical vegetation and roll out of bed onto the beach, you’ll find several BnBs and hotels in La Punta that offer exactly that. Just keep in mind that the beaches in this part of town are best for surfing, not swimming.

Both La Punta and Zicatela play host to a vibrant nightlife scene that includes plenty of live music, DJs and beach parties. This means that nights can be quite noisy if you stay near the main strip. Add to this the fact that it’s not uncommon to be woken up at the crack of dawn to the sound of roosters and you can see why these two areas are most suited to those getting up early to surf or do yoga and staying up late to enjoy the nightlife.

As we already mentioned, Bacocho is the area we decided to stay in when we visited Puerto Escondido. In contrast to Zicatela and La Punta, it’s known for having a quiet and laid-back atmosphere. It’s primarily a residential neighborhood where the streets are lined with fruit trees and gorgeous flowers. The main attractions in the area are the Rinconada, where you’ll find restaurants, coffee shops, bars and shops, and the multiple beaches that are within walking distance from any part of the neighborhood. We’ll discuss these in further detail in our dedicated ‘Puerto Escondido Beaches’ section. For now, let’s continue to focus on Bacocho itself.

While it is possible to find budget accommodation in the area, in general, this neighborhood is best for those looking to rent a house or apartment or stay in a boutique hotel. A quick search on Airbnb or Google maps (zoom the map in so that it only covers the area you’re interested in) will bring up plenty of options suitable for single travelers, couples or families and groups. Many of the properties in Bacocho have a pool and a large rooftop terrace. Both of these features are really helpful when it comes to staying fresh during the day, especially during the slightly warmer and more humid months from May to October. 
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In general, you can find all the basic household necessities and food you may need at one of the small tienditas (little shops) that are scattered throughout the area. However, neither Bacocho nor Zicatela have a full-sized supermarket or market. For those, you’ll need to head into the center of town, which is right between the two neighborhoods and takes just 5 minutes to reach by taxi or around 25 minutes walking. There are also plenty of options for accommodation in the central parts of the city like Reforma and Hidalgo, with the latter close to the Playa Principal (main beach) and a couple of other beaches that are frequented mainly by locals. The prices are a little lower in these areas as they cater more to the local market.

Oaxaca state is widely considered the culinary heart of Mexico. Each year, chefs and food lovers from all over the world come to explore its myriad flavors and unique traditions. Oaxaca produces high volumes of coffee, cacao and vanilla. The markets are filled with wide varieties of fruits and vegetables, including quite a few you’ve likely never heard of or tasted - most of which are totally delicious. 

You’ll also encounter even stranger fare such as fried chapulines (crickets), gusanos rojos (red worms) and the seasonal delicacy of chicatanas (a type of leaf-cutter ant). There’s also mole (a complex sauce that comes in near-infinite varieties), huitlacoche (an edible fungus that grows on corn) and of course, the agave-based drink Mezcal.

Oaxaca City is the undoubted center of all of this deliciousness and a melting pot for the diverse culinary traditions found throughout the state. If food is your thing, we highly suggest you plan some time there when creating your itinerary or make the trip up from the coast once you’re settled in if you’re relocating to the area. That said, you can also find all of the above-mentioned goodies and much more, even in humble Puerto Escondido. In the rest of this section, we’ll fill you in on some of the best restaurants in the city, coffee shops, shopping at the open-air market and finding street food.

​The restaurant scene in Puerto Escondido draws much from Oaxaca’s rich ingredients and culinary traditions while also mirroring the diverse mix of people that can be found here. Those looking for vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free or healthy choices won’t be disappointed either. In general, there is a good mixture of high-end establishments and everyday options that offer excellent quality at affordable prices. Here are our top suggestions for eating out in Puerto Escondido:

​They offer breakfast, lunch and dinner service, which is rare in Mexico where many places only open for either the first or second half of the day. The food is homey, hearty and tasty - with the Mexican dishes cooked in an authentic “abuelita” (grandmother) style. Prices are good and the portions are extremely generous. The only real downside to eating here is that there can be queues to get a table during busy periods, although you normally don’t have to wait very long as their turnaround time is quite fast.

Cafe Azul ($) - Cheap, wholesome and delicious Mexican food and breakfasts cooked in a homey style. This hidden gem is almost always packed with locals, a great sign no matter where you are in the world. Located in Bacocho. (address: CALLE LAMBYETECO ESQ, GUELATAO, FRACC. BACOCHO 71983 Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico).

We’d love to review all our favorite eateries in Puerto Escondido individually, but there just isn’t enough space for that in this blog post. We cover several more locations, including several coffee shops in our Puerto Escondido guide (which is a much more expanded version of this blog post, and available here).  

Of all the amazing attractions Puerto Escondido has to offer, its beaches are the sandy, sunswept jewels in the crown. In total, you have seven to choose from, ranging in size from the small protected bays of Playa Coral and Carrizalillo to the long, wide stretches of Playa Zicatela and Bacocho. 
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Whether you’re an expert surfer, wouldn’t mind learning to ride a wave, fancy a spot of snorkeling, prefer a relaxing dip and some sunbathing or simply want to stroll down a quiet strip of sand while enjoying the waves and a gorgeous sunset, Puerto Escondido has you covered. Here is some info about each beach, including which activities they’re best for and how busy they get:

Playa Zicatela (Surfer’s Paradise): The most well-known beach in Puerto Escondido plays host to the country’s most famous wave, the Mexican Pipeline. It’s this wave that makes the city Mexico’s surf Mecca and attracts thousands of surfers a year, especially in the big wave season during the Northern Hemisphere summer when the southern swells kick into full force.

There are a couple of surf and bodyboarding contests held on the beach during this period. However, the power of the waves and strength of the undertow on Ziactela also means it’s unsuitable for swimming. Many unprepared tourists need to be rescued by lifeguards each year. 

​The biggest breaks are found at the north of the beach. Those looking for something a bit less advanced can head south to La Punta, where the waves range from small enough for beginners during winter months to an intermediate level during the big wave season. Non-surfers should stick to long walks, enjoying a few drinks with friends or strangers (yes, drinking is allowed on most beaches in Mexico) and taking in the sunsets or sunrises while watching the surfers get smashed. 

To reach Playa Carrizalillo you’ll need to walk down (and back up) a relatively long and steep set of stairs. This can be a bit tough in the middle of the day, especially if you’re a little out of shape or not accustomed to the heat. That said, anyone can do it, and we’d highly advise that you do. The view from the top of the stairs is one of the best photo ops in town, with the beautiful beach, palm trees and blue waters below framed perfectly by the bay.

​Due to its insane natural beauty, suitability for swimming and relatively modest size, Carrizalillo can get a little crowded, especially in the afternoons. We suggest going in the morning while it’s still quiet, but even later in the day it’s never so full that it becomes unpleasant.

​Let’s just get this out of the way- Yes, Puerto Escondido is the kind of place that has so many great beaches that they warrant an entire section in a travel guide. We cover a few more beaches in our guide, including Playa Bacocho, Playa Coral, Playa Principal and Playa Manzanillo. (Part 2 of this post is continued here). 

Reader Question: Hi, my wife and I currently live in Central California, which seems to get worse every year in terms of taxes, crime, and even gangs. There was never any graffiti or violent crime in my town growing up, and now it seems to be constantly on the rise.

​We have visited Mexico several times and enjoyed the culture and basically everything about it. I work online and can basically move anywhere. I am looking to relocate to San Miguel de Allende, or possibly Playa Del Carmen (haven't decided yet!).

My wife and I have a 10 year old son and another baby on the way, I guess our main concern is about schools. Right now our oldest is in a public school but online-only because of COVID, so we can continue doing this after we move, but we want to eventually make a "clean break" and put our kids in a good private school. Can you give us any advice on taking the plunge? It seems that this is the only thing that's really stopping us. We are so ready to get out of California for good! Any advice would be appreciated!


~Michael and Jeanie

Answer: We were in the same boat when we moved from Northern California in 2016. Tons of crime and gangs, and we were SO DONE!

We visited Mexico several times before we "took the plunge". It ended up being a great decision for us. We put all our kids in a bilingual private school and they are thriving now. Even our oldest, who had so many issues in his U.S. school, is now getting good grades and is testing well in all his courses, he's also made tons of friends. It took about 2 years for him to be comfortable here, we did pay for a tutor the first two years to help him along at first, but now he speaks Spanish and English equally well and he is on track to graduate with all the "normal" kids in his class. It was the best decision we ever made for our kids. My advice is just to do it, give it a try. 

~Be free! Expatriate!
Manny 

Hey Scott, glad you're thinking about taking the plunge! 

American citizens must pay tax on world-wide income wherever they live, so you will have to continue your tax filings in Mexico, plus file an FBAR if you have a foreign bank account. We usually refer out to Taxes for Expats if you want tax advice. They specialize in these types of filings. 

Depending on which state you are living in now, you may want to consider transferring your official residency to FL or NV (both very tax-friendly and retiree-friendly states) before you officially leave the U.S. 

We always recommend setting up a mail forwarding service, Inc Paradise is the service that we use in NV. Make sure to drop a change of address form in the mail and do a USPS change of address online the day that you leave (and keep a copy of it). That's good evidence of a formal address change.

If you want to get Mexican Residency, it's easy if you have a pension or some other sort of passive income source, because Mexico offers a "retiree visa" that is relatively easy to get. You have to actually start the process at a Mexican consulate before you leave, though, so we recommend getting in touch with a good Mexican immigration attorney to help with the paperwork. While not difficult, it is time consuming and it is easy to forget one necessary document that you might need, and that will derail the whole process, which is aggravating (and happened to us the first time we tried to get the ball rolling)! We always recommend EDUARDO CHAVEZ FREGOSO, ESQ.

He is our immigration attorney and he also does real estate, which is important if you plan to buy a home in Mexico. Expect to pay between $750 and $1,000 USD (at the current exchange rate 20:1) for the attorney to file the necessary paperwork for you. The retiree visa is good for 4 years and will allow you to live indefinitely in Mexico and open a Mexican bank account. 

You can use your US driver's license in Mexico but you won't be able to use your car in Mexico for more than 180 days without bringing it back to the US. That's not a problem if you plan to go back and forth at least twice a year (people in Baja/Cabo tend to make frequent trips, but if you end up going somewhere like Quintana Roo/Cancun, you need to think about buying a car down there). 

After that, it's basically all about getting used to the culture and the climate, both of which are different but wonderful. English is widely spoken in Cabo and all over Baja so you won't have a difficult time. Enjoy your move, Mexico is a beautiful place for retirees!

~Manny 

Hi Gayle,
​I am going to assume you are talking about the state of Colima, and not Colima City, which is the capital of the Colima state.

In fact, the state of Colima does have several small, but vibrant expat communities.

Many Canadians and Americans live in Colima because the climate is relatively temperate (although summers near the coast can be hot and humid) and it is affordable to live, even on a fixed income. 

Manzanillo, Colima has many expats and the city contains Mexico's busiest port, which is responsible for handling Pacific cargo for the Mexico City area. There is a lot of commerce in the city, and it is relatively affordable compared to many other Pacific Coast cities. There are cheaper areas, of course. 

According to the website Expatistan, the cost of living in Chapala-Ajijic, Jalisco (the other city that you mentioned) is approximately 19% cheaper than in Manzanillo, Colima (Mexico). 

Now, if you are talking about Colima City itself, the Financial Times of London ranked Colima first in small cities and tenth in Latin America as a place to live. Colima is a wonderful colonial city, it's not too large, but it is large enough to have all the amenities that a large metropolitan city would have.  Colima city is only an hour from the beach. The climate is semi-humid and relatively mild all year round, although the city itself can be very hot, especially in the summertime, there are more temperate areas just outside the city. This Canadian expat shares her personal expat story in Colima here and we think it's a very thoughtful take on the region. 

Whatever you decide, we generally suggest visiting the area with an extended vacation in mind. Try staying at a local Airbnb or other service that allows for long-term rentals, and stay for at least 3-6 months before you make any kind of permanent decision about moving. 

Let's talk about beautiful Manzanillo, Mexico. Manzanillo is in the Mexican state of Colima. Colima is one of the smallest Mexican states. Manzanillo is the largest beach city in the state. The city is located right on the Pacific ocean and contains Mexico's biggest and busiest port. The city has a population of about 140,000 people, give or take. The city is well known for each deep-sea fishing competitions as well as warm water and swimmable beaches. There are many beach clubs that are friendly to locals as well as tourists. 

​There are several golf courses in Manzanillo, so if you enjoy golf, you’ll have more than one course to choose from. The Las Hadas Golf Resort and Marina is the “ritziest” by far, in the area. It is an award-winning, 18-hole course with ocean views. We drove by Las Hadas and took several pictures, the course itself looks well-maintained with lots of amenities, including golf carts, caddies, etc. 

Some expats prefer Manzanillo to other popular tourist areas like Cabo San Lucas, because Manzanillo has many swimmable beaches as well as excellent fishing. Manzanillo is known as the “sailfish capital of the world” boasts several annual fishing competitions that attract thousands of tourists every year.
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The cost of a “beachfront” condo tends to be cheaper in Manzanillo than in many other Pacific coast cities, for example, a moderately-sized condo near the beach with two bedrooms can be purchased for as little as $100,000 USD. Compared to other resort-style areas like Puerto Vallarta or Zihuantanejo/Ixtapa, the price of real estate in Manzanillo is a bargain. 

A retiree on a budget of $800-$1,000 per month could live comfortably (although not lavishly) in Manzanillo. 

Manzanillo is generally safe for tourists and expats, the crime rate is lower than most major US cities, but there is still a fair amount of crime, especially property crime, like petty theft. Locals and expats are generally advised to stay away from the Colima-Michoacán border, where there is reportedly drug trafficking. 

Manzanillo is an important Mexican port city, as well as a popular tourist destination, so the local police try hard to make the city as safe as possible for tourists. Tourism accounts for a large portion of the city’s revenues so the local government makes it a priority to try to keep tourists safe in order to avoid bad press.

That’s not to say that if you visit Manzanillo as a tourist that you shouldn’t be sensible. You should never flash money around, and you should be careful with your wallet, purse, camera or any other expensive belongings. Don’t wear expensive jewelry, watches, or rings. Keep those items at home. 
Try to avoid becoming inebriated in a public place. Try to avoid walking very late at night, or in areas that have poor lighting or are not main streets. Being distracted can make you an easy target for thieves. Be watchful of their surroundings. Most crimes that occur in tourist areas are crimes of opportunity.

Thieves look for tourists who are already drunk, or not paying attention to their belongings. If you avoid making yourself an easy victim, it’s unlikely that you will be targeted. 

There are a number of all-inclusive resorts in the city, and those resorts try to keep tourists there at night, but I have ventured out with my family several times in the evening in Manzanillo and did not feel unsafe. As long as you stick to the main streets, and practice basic common sense, you should be fine.

The city itself is not very “walkable,” in other words, it’s more of an industrialized city, so you really do need a car to get around if you want to explore. As I said there are resorts that are all-inclusive, but I’m not the type that wants to spend my entire vacation locked-down inside a single resort. Unlike other popular tourist zones (like Cabo San Lucas or Cancun), don’t expect to find a lot of English speakers in the local population. Most of the locals speak Spanish and you should at least understand some Spanish if you want to explore.

GETTING THERE: We drove! Now, Manzanillo does have an international airport which is officially called the "Playa de Oro International Airport". This airport is the largest international Airport in Colima and an important gateway for tourism and state. The official airport code is ZLO. The airport offers international and national flights. 

Rather than taking a flight, however, we decided to drive. We wanted to avoid the expense of renting a car as well as the expense and hassle of flying with three children! So, we packed the kids in our truck, filled our suitcases with beach supplies, and also brought along a large cooler filled with sandwiches, snacks, and bottled water. 

There are actually two highways along the Highway 54 route to Manzanillo for part of the way, a toll road and a non-toll road. We stuck to the main highways and toll road the entire way, which we were told was safer. The toll roads have numerous gas stations and small restaurants along the way, as well as bathrooms and other amenities if you need to stop. 

The general consensus is that the toll roads are faster, safer, and easier. But they are not cheap, and you will have to stop and pay tolls several times. We ended up paying around 1,500 pesos (about $125-$150 at the current exchange rate) in tolls on the way there as well as the return trip. 

Now, you can choose to take the non-toll roads. These roads are free, but they will make your trip quite a bit longer, and the general consensus is that the toll roads are safer. There is a benefit to taking the free roads, and that is that there are some interesting towns and beautiful scenery that might be worth seeing, especially if you have the time to stop. The toll road and the free road run parallel to each other for the majority of the trip. Depending on your starting point, taking the free road will probably add additional hours to your trip.

Many people also choose to travel to Manzanillo by way of first-class bus. The Primera Plus bus line is one of the more popular bus lines. The buses offer free Wi-Fi, they have movies on board, and many of them also offer meals and drinks. The buses have air conditioning and bathrooms, just like a plane, but are generally much cheaper than flying. The price by bus from Guadalajara to Manzanillo is about 500 pesos per person (about $30 US dollars at the current exchange rate). 
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Traffic was slow in some areas, especially once we got closer to the main city of Manzanillo. The drive took about 8 hours total from where we were currently staying in Guanajuato, although the “Google Maps” estimate was 5 hours. We encountered no problems on the road except a few construction delays. Traffic never stopped completely, although there were a few areas on the highway once we reached Colima where we were moving along at a snail’s pace.

LODGING: Using Airbnb, we rented a house on La Punta (Colonia), which was a gated community with 24-hour security staff. The views were breathtaking and the house itself was very nice, with a first-floor dip/swimming pool that we enjoyed with the kids. The community was safe to walk around, even in the evening. We saw security guards walking about at night. The beach club and private beach were beautiful and the beach was safe to swim. 

The drawback of La Punta is its odd location to the beach. The closest beach club is private and it is close by, but only by going down some very steep hills. It’s basically impossible to visit the beach without a car or truck if you:

• Want to take any supplies with you, such as towels, food, or an ice chest or cooler; or
• If you have any difficulty walking or have some other type of physical impairment. 

We felt that the Airbnb listing, frankly, was misleading at best. The photos showed a beautiful private beach club (which, admittedly, were part of the amenities at La Punta), except the owner never mentioned that the beach club was easily half a mile away, down a very steep and winding hillside. Our advice is to verify with the owners of the property if the house or condo you are renting is actually beachfront or not. 

Note: We've noticed that this is a chronic problem with Airbnb where many hosts will post misleading photographs and Airbnb does not permit searches by zip code or exact address, and their map is grossly inaccurate. I understand that many hosts would prefer that their address not be listed publicly, but at least a “beachfront” filter would be extremely helpful. A listing might be 5 kilometers away from the beach and show up on the map as “beachfront”. Always confirm directly with the host if you desire a specific location (for example, if you want to be close to a certain landmark or right on the beach). 

FOOD: In general, we stayed away from expensive restaurants and enjoyed mostly cheap street food, which was excellent. Our rental had a full kitchen so we went to the grocery store and bought cereal as well as some breakfast items so we could have breakfast before going out and exploring. 

There are a number of stores where you can readily purchase groceries, as well as anything else you may have forgotten to bring with you, like sunglasses, towels, a bathing suit, etc. Stores like: Soriana, Wal-Mart, and La Comer all mega-stores that carry groceries, meat, dairy goods, as well as large sections for clothing, baby items, etc. There is currently a small mall called “Plaza Manzanillo” with several dozen stores. We visited it and saw that it was mostly clothing being sold there. There is also a Sam’s Club and Home Depot in the city if you need those types of supplies. 

Anything you might need is there, and they are all located in the center of the city. Smaller items such as milk, cold medicine, bottled water, etc. can be picked up at smaller drugstores located throughout the city (almost on every corner, it seems!). 

We did go out with the family two evenings and ate at two different restaurants which were considered “upscale” according to TripAdvisor. 

• El Marinero, which was located right on the beach in a completely open-air setting. The seafood here was disappointing and the breeze coming off the water in the evening soon turned too cold to be comfortable. The four servers on duty that night spent most of the time giggling at each other at the bar and avoiding the customer’s tables. Their credit card machine was also mysteriously “broken” and we had to pay in cash. Based on our experience, we would not recommend it. 
• Pacifica Restaurant and Bar, which was also beachfront and located in a newer building. Now this restaurant was great. There is indoor as well as outdoor seating, and great ocean views. The food was pricey, but superb. And the service was great, too. The servers hovered around us, very attentive. We always had our water glasses full, more drinks when we ordered them, ketchup for the kids, etc. Everything we asked for was promptly delivered, and the owner came out and greeted us personally! Just a wonderful dining experience all around. 

THE WEATHER: The weather was beautiful every day we were there. Manzanillo is not very hot or humid, and temperatures tended to be mild, although warm enough to swim every single day. The skies were blue and gorgeous throughout our visit. 

Some of the beaches have been very crowded, although there are private beaches that are available to those who stay in exclusive areas. There are many beaches worth exploring, and you can find crowded beaches as well as secluded ones if that is what you prefer.

With regards to whether throughout the year Manzanillo has dry periods in February, March, April, and May. The best time to visit Manzanillo tends to be the summertime, from May until early July. Temperatures throughout the year run from the low 70’s F (around 21 Celsius) to highs of 91° (around 25° C) in August, which tends to be the hottest month of the year. 

Perfect weather while we were there!

Reader Question: I need dental implants to replace several of my teeth. My insurance of course will not pay fr this, and the price quotes that I am getting in the US are insane. Like $20K and up. I have been reading about the possibility of getting my dental work done in Mexico, and maybe making a fishing trip out of it. Can you give me any suggestions?
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~Daniel in Idaho

Manny's Answer: Well, I completely understand your desire to try to save money on medical care. We've written several blog posts about this in the past. I personally have never had dental implants done in Mexico, but our family has had several medical procedures done in Mexico, including dental work. 

My wife and I have both had many medical services done in Mexico (including dental work for ourselves and our children) and we’ve been happy overall with the service as well as price. For example, our most recent dental emergency was for our youngest son, who experienced a cracked molar. We visited orthodontist who ordered x-rays the same day.

The full-mouth x-ray cost less than $20, and a metal crown cost less than $100. Everything was finished in about a week and cost less than $150. The doctor believed the crack was caused by biting something hard (perhaps a piece of animal bone or a rock in food) and he suggested a metal crown to protect the tooth from further damage and also protect the nerve. Our son didn't feel any actual pain yet, but the tooth was visibly cracked and he was getting sensitive to hot and cold foods, like hot chocolate and ice cream.

The crown was applied and the doctor told us that he would lose the tooth in 3-4 years when his adult molars started to come in. In the meantime, he would be able to eat normally and without pain. 

Compare this to the cost of the metal crown in California (which I had to have done several years before moving out of the state) which cost our family over $1,000 USD, all of which had to be paid out of pocket because our insurance did not cover dental work. 

Now, we don't ever plan to go back to California for any reason, (much less for obscenely expensive medical care). But I was giving you an example of our own experience with U.S. medical care.

My most recent medical visit was in Guanajuato Mexico, for blood work (my cholesterol is a bit on the high side). The blood testing cost about $36 USD and the prescription for cholesterol medication was less than $10 at the local pharmacy. That was it, the actual consultation with the doctor was only around $10, as well. The full cost of the blood work, prescription, and office visit is less than I would've paid for a single office visit co-pay in the United States.

My personal take is that, if you are planning a trip to Mexico anyway, it's worth it to get an appointment and an estimate for whatever elective surgery (either dental, cosmetic, or otherwise) that you might be considering. 

Manny's Answer: Hi Sean! The information on our blog is mainly based on U.S. expats, because that's what we are, and we are basically talking about our own experiences. But we've met LOTS of Canadian expats in Mexico, as well as Canadian "snowbirds" that only come down to visit to escape the harsh northern winters and then return home.

Many of them are either retirees or digital nomads who work online and can basically roam around and live anywhere. There are also a lot of French, Spanish, and German transplants in Mexico, (from our experience, more in the Mayan Riviera and the state of Quintana Roo than in Baja California Sur, but I think that's more due to simple geography than anything else. Californians and Texans can easily drive down the Baja Peninsula with their cars and it's less than a day's drive to get down to Baja and start enjoying great beaches and a cheaper standard of living.

I don't know anything about Canadian taxation but my understanding is that the residency process for Canadians is the same as for Americans who wish to obtain Mexican residency. You just have to prove that you are solvent (basically) and produce 3 months of bank statements showing that you can support yourself, which is why so many retirees come down to Baja and live very comfortably on their Social Security checks. A good Mexican immigration attorney can answer all these questions for you and they are typically much cheaper than any US or Canadian attorney. 

We have met countless people who do this, including Mexican nationals who have dual U.S./Mexican Citizenship. Even a very small Social Security check (or other retirement, such as a military pension or other pension) is usually a LOT more than most Mexicans earn per month. For example,  in Mexico, a schoolteacher typically makes around (the equivalent) of $11,000 U.S. dollars. That is less than $1,000 US dollars per month! And that is considered a good and stable job in Mexico.

American and Canadian dollars stretch further down here, as you can imagine. That's even taking into account the fact that the peso is currently very weak against the U.S. dollar.

Now is a great time to buy land or other property in Mexico, because it is considered dirt cheap. We have purchased two plots of land and we are looking to purchase vacation property, as well (just haven't decided if we should go with Ixtapa or Tulum, or Playa Del Carmen!) There are so many beautiful coastal cities that it's really hard to decide. 

Our advice, as always, is to come down with an open mind and really just enjoy yourself. DON'T spend your time at all-inclusive resorts or hotels. Get a place off the beaten path (there are tons on Airbnb) and just walk around and see how the locals live. That will tell you if Mexico really is for you. 

Be FREE! EXPATRIATE!

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