(Continued from Part Two, here...)

We’ve already covered a lot of aspects of Puerto Escondido that will come in handy whether you’re just visiting or planning on making it your permanent home. Now, it’s time to discuss the ins and outs of everyday life. While this section is aimed chiefly at those planning longer stays, many of the topics we’ll cover, such as the stuff about safety, shopping and transportation, will come in handy no matter how long you’re planning on being in town. 

It’s fair to say that Puerto Escondido is not far away from being a genuine paradise, but there are some things you need to learn to live with. Anyone who has resided in multiple countries, cities and towns will tell you that there isn’t a place on earth that has it all. Want to escape the rat race? Done, but then don’t expect the same standard of amenities and services you get in a big, technologically advanced city. Want to reduce your cost of living by moving to the developing world? Understandable, but remember that you’re not always going to have access to the same variety of stuff. Sick of the cold? It’s always warm in the tropics but that also means mosquitos and sweating like a pig when you’re out in the middle of the day.
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Knowing your priorities and being willing to make some tradeoffs are the keys to finding the right place to live. In this section, we’ll provide you with the honest truth about the pros and cons of life in Puerto Escondido so that you can make an informed decision about whether or not it might be the place for you.

If you’re looking to relocate to Puerto Escondido permanently, you’ll almost certainly be looking to buy or build a house. A fully furnished 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom house in an area like Bacocho or Zicatela would typically cost between $120 000 - $300 000 but can go as high as $2-3 million when it comes to the most luxurious properties. Naturally, you can shave quite a few bucks off by building and furnishing everything yourself. Another advantage of doing it this way is that you can really build your own dream home. Of course, there’s also the small matter of months of build time and all the drama and setbacks that can come with it.

​The most well-known real estate agents in the city are Blue Horizon and Puerto Escondido Real Estate & Vacation Rentals; however, there are many other options. We highly suggest only buying through registered and reputable agents as scams have been known to take place. 

In terms of renting, the same typical 2 bed, 2 bath house generally costs between $1000 - $3000 a month. There are apartments and even small houses available for less, with a typical 1 bedroom place going for between $500 - $1000 a month. In terms of both renting and buying, if you’re willing (or prefer) to live a bit further from the beach or even outside of the city itself, you can find options between 20-50% cheaper. You can easily for rental properties on Facebook, or Airbnb, then negotiate with the owners.

Personally, we often rent through Airbnb using our American Express card (which protects every purchase we make and also earns us points for travel). If we like the place, we reach out to the owner and negotiate a longer stay. If we don't like the location for whatever reason, we simply leave the Airbnb and choose a new one. This has worked for us several times all over Mexico. 

Note: Locals generally don’t advertise their rental properties through traditional channels. If you are looking for a long-term rental in Puerto Escondido you can walk around the neighborhood and ask about rentals. It is commonplace for locals to advertise their rentals by merely putting a hand-written sign in a window facing the street. 

There is also a fast-growing market for pieces of land in the areas just outside the city such as Valdeflores, Palmarito, El Tomatal and others as people start to anticipate that this area is becoming a true tourist hotspot. The prices are rising fast but from an extremely low baseline, meaning they should remain a great bargain for the next couple of years at least. In 2021, a 2,000-3,000 sq. foot plot of land still only costs around $1,500 - $3,000 USD. 

We’ve already discussed the Benito Juarez Market, which is a great place to shop for food, some basic goods and local specialties. So where else do people go for day-to-day shopping in Puerto Escondido? The city has a couple of large department stores, one by Mexican retail giant Chedraui and the more budget-friendly Bodega Aurrera. Both contain all the basics, but Chedraui has more categories and a greater selection of choices within each of these. Think Walmart with a Mexican flavor but also a lot of the same brands you’re accustomed to if you live in the USA or Canada. 

Besides the main market and department stores, there is also the Zicatela market that services that side of town as well as a host of small shops selling fruits and vegetables, clothing, and other basic goods scattered throughout the city. There are also options for the more conscious consumer, with several shops that sell organic food and locally produced goods in both Bacocho (Señor Salud and Punto Verde) and Zicatela/La Punta (Kankedami, Verde Puerto and Canela).

As with every other town or city in Mexico, you don’t have to go far to find a pharmacy. Also just like the rest of the country, all of the pharmacies sell antibiotics and other medications that normally require a prescription right over the counter. You also don’t have to look far to find hardware, stationery and second-hand stores.

​Where things become a little trickier is with specialized goods such as technology, sporting equipment and all of those other random yet useful miscellaneous items you find in more developed places. Fortunately, it’s the 21st century and courier services reach far more remote locations than Puerto Escondido. All it takes is a few clicks on Mercado Libre, Amazon or eBay and whatever you need will be delivered to your door.

The relatively lower cost of living in Mexico is one of the main things that attracts foreigners from wealthier nations. No matter what part of the world you’re talking about, where the gringos go the prices go up.

​That’s certainly true of places like the Riviera Maya and Baja California Sur, where the cost of living has been slowly increasing for years and has now reached the point that most Mexicans are shocked when they arrive in these places and see how much a meal or an activity sets you back. Sure, these places are still extremely affordable if you’re converting back from dollars, euros or pounds, but there are places in Mexico where you still get a much better bang for your buck.
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Puerto Escondido is certainly one of these, and Oaxaca in general is known as one of the cheapest places to live in all of Mexico. Of course, the above rule of thumb still applies, and prices here are definitely creeping up as more and more foreigners buy up property and inject their disposable income into the local economy. The price of renting and buying property in Bacocho or near the beachfront in Zicatela would undoubtedly shock most Oaxacans. Right now, it’s still around 20-30% cheaper than places such as Los Cabos, Playa Del Carmen and Tulum, but we don’t expect this state of affairs to last much longer.

In terms of daily costs, groceries and basic goods are around 10% cheaper than in the above-mentioned places, while gasoline costs the same or even slightly more than in most other parts of Mexico (a little over $1/liter, or around $4/gallon). One aspect of life in Puerto Escondido where you can really find great value is eating out. The “fancy” restaurants are cheap in comparison with what you find in swanky parts of Mexico City or other coastal hotspots, while the prices at “normal” restaurants and for street food as mouthwatering as the food itself. It’s not difficult to find a delicious meal in a clean, well-maintained restaurant for under $5.

Taking everything into consideration, you can easily meet all your basic needs for between $500 - 1,000 USD a month (excluding housing), while anything in the region of $2-3K a month will allow you to live a very comfortable lifestyle.

The quality and availability of healthcare are some of the most critical considerations many of us make when deciding where to live. This is especially true for those with pre-existing conditions, are advancing in years, and families with young children or those planning on having them soon. Fortunately, Mexico is known for having high-quality medical services available at far more reasonable costs than in the USA or Canada. On the downside, the system can sometimes be complicated and confusing to navigate, with prices sometimes varying drastically between states and institutions. Free healthcare options are available to Mexican citizens and in some cases to foreign residents, but having some form of health insurance is highly recommended. There are public and private health insurance schemes available to residents, so we suggest further reading on this subject.

Puerto Escondido has both public and private hospitals, several clinics, ample dentists, general practitioners, and even a few specialists. The primary public hospital is Hospital General, while Hospital Angel Del Mar is the primary private healthcare facility. 

Hospital Angel Del Mar/Contact
​Tel: 954 104 2270, Emergency: ext.103
Sexta Norte, Sector Reforma, Puerto Escondido

Both are equipped with functioning trauma units, with the Hospital Angel Del Mar being highly regarded in this sense. It’s also possible to receive a wide range of other treatments at both facilities, however, cases that require advanced treatments or the use of highly specialized equipment are normally transferred to larger hospitals in Oaxaca City, Salina Cruz and, in extreme cases, other parts of Mexico.

​In most cases, foreigners and expats in Mexico stick to private healthcare options as they provide greater flexibility and, generally speaking, a better level of care (with the exceptions being things such as free vaccinations at government clinics, certain really good government hospitals, etc.) Private insurance costs are also not exorbitant compared to many other countries with fully or partially privatized healthcare systems. Overall, the healthcare options in Puerto Escondido are more than enough for most people’s needs, with the possible exception of those that live with complicated chronic conditions that sometimes require advanced care. As long as you have insurance, you can rest assured that good first-line medical care will be available (and not bankrupt you and your family) should you have an accident or unexpected health problem.

If you’ve read any of our other books or blog posts you’ll know that we’re big fans of the education opportunities available in Mexico. That’s not to say we compare the public school system favorably with that of other countries, but unlike the USA and many other more developed places, private schooling is far more affordable in Mexico. You’re also highly likely to find good, dual language private schools anyplace that has an expat population, and Puerto Escondido is no different. There are several options, especially for younger age groups.

One of the most well renowned of these is , which has both a pre-school (3-5 years) and a primary school (6-12 years). The school has been around for 30 years already, which makes it one of the oldest in Puerto Escondido, and is known for both its solid “traditional” education (incl. being registered in the national education system known as SEP), and excellent programs/electives that teach the children more about nature, entrepreneurship, technology, etc. The curriculum also includes learning in the organic garden, physical education, arts and computer skills. While the curriculum is taught in Spanish, there is an hour-long English lesson every day.

Another excellent option for younger kids is Papalotes, a Waldorf Education System school where children aged 3-12 can develop their intellectual, artistic, and practical skills in an integrated and holistic environment. School administration is done entirely by a volunteer committee of parents, which both brings down costs and allows those with the time and motivation to play an active role in the school. There is also a fantastic three-week-long summer school program called Camino Verde (Green Path) where the kids learn about art and movement in the first week, scientific experiments/STEM in week two and modeling/design/construction in the final week.

There are also two private high schools, the Escuela Libertadores De America and the Colegio Internacional Del Pacifico, while Papalotes has plans to open a middle school and high school in the next few years as well. ​

Taxis are also easy to find and, as long as you’re using one that’s registered to a local association, perfectly safe to use. These taxis are painted white and green and will have a card with the driver’s name and association number clearly visible somewhere in the front seat area (taxis with other colors from nearby towns sometimes pass through, these are fine to use also). It’s very uncommon to have someone unregistered offer you a ride as the taxi associations “control” the streets to ensure they don’t lose out on fares. A short ride costs around $2 while a longer one across town costs just $3.
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The colectivos are even cheaper, costing a standard price of usually under $1 per trip no matter where on the route you hop on and off. They’re also safe to use, but we’d suggest sticking to daytime travel and avoiding wearing flashy, expensive-looking accessories just to be on the safe side. Talking of which...

Safety: Puerto Escondido is considered an extremely safe city by Mexican standards. In fact, even when compared with more developed places, it doesn’t stack up badly. Violent crimes and burglaries are almost unheard of. On the other hand, crimes of opportunity do happen if you’re careless with bags and valuables. People here are proud of the city’s reputation as a safe place and almost everyone you meet is friendly and helpful.

Like other parts of Mexico that attract tourists, it is spared from the open violence between gangs that afflicts many other parts of the country. Ultimately, the harsh reality is that harm to tourists and foreigners is bad for business and attracts far more attention than when innocent (and often poorer) Mexicans are affected. In other words, you’re highly unlikely to run into trouble with gangs in Mexico unless you meddle in “their business”.

Our ultimate advice to expats and travelers is that no matter where you are, simply using your common sense and trusting your intuition are the most important aspects of staying safe. Of course, making some local friends that can share the lay of the land with you never hurts either.

Other important things to note about living in Puerto Escondido: While we’ve already covered most of the core aspects of life in Puerto Escondido, there are a few other important things we would like to mention. We’ve already told you that Puerto Escondido is popular among so-called “digital nomads”, however that does come with a small caveat.

​The internet connection in Puerto Escondido can be spotty, especially during busy periods. Even when it’s operating normally, the download and upload speeds average about 3-5 MB p/s and 0.5-2 MB p/s, respectively. There is the option to get faster satellite internet, but that starts at around $125 a month while a standard Telmex line costs between $20-45 (if you’re renting, internet is often included at no additional cost). 

Another thing that can be a little inconsistent at times is the water supply, although this is rarely an issue as multiple companies operating trucks that bring potable water to refill cisterns and tanks if the municipal supply doesn’t arrive on time or you finish yours early. If you’re careful with your water you shouldn’t have to worry about this and once again, if you’re renting, these water refills are normally paid for by the landlord.

Like many parts of Mexico, the tap water is not preferable for consumption but is fine for showering, washing clothes and dishes, etc. Drinking water is typically sold in garrafons (5 gallon/20 liter plastic bottles) which can be purchased for a one-time price of around $5 and then refilled for $1. Several companies drive around the city all day honking their horns, shouting “agua” and exchanging empty bottles for full ones.

In terms of language, you can get by on English alone when you’re in the touristy areas of town. However, if you’re planning on spending any substantial amount of time in Mexico, learning some Spanish is vital and the more you know, the easier and more pleasant your life here will be. There are many language schools and private teachers that offer Spanish lessons in Puerto Escondido and online. Alternatively, download an app like Duolingo to practice for free and do your best to learn from everyday encounters. At the end of the day, the more you immerse yourself in the local culture, the richer your experience of this place or any other will be.

Final Thoughts....

Puerto Escondido is undoubtedly an up-and-coming city with plenty of opportunities to invest in businesses and property. For better or worse (probably a bit of both), the new federal highway from Oaxaca City due to open by 2022 is set to accelerate the region’s growth. Prices are steadily rising, but for now, it’s still a good deal cheaper than some of the other most popular spots in Mexico for expats. In terms of lifestyle, it’s a laid-back place with plenty of culture to soak in and a thriving community of people exploring alternative lifestyles and healthier ways to live. If you’re looking to expand your horizons and like the sound of living in Mexico’s most diverse state, this might well be the place for you.
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That’s equally true for nature lovers and those who want to spend substantial amounts of time on some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. Aside from the ocean vibes, there is a lot to get excited about inland as well, with beautiful tropical landscapes morphing into high-altitude temperate forests within just a couple of hour’s drive inland. The smorgasbord of activities on offer will keep you busy throughout the year and the culinary culture of Oaxaca is quite simply a foodie’s dream. Yes, there are some compromises to be made, but where is that not the case? When everything is said and done (which it now is), you could do far worse than ending up in Puerto Escondido.

(Continued from Part One, here...)

Author's Note: No website or company has paid a fee to be mentioned in this blog. Any suggestions you see are based solely on our own experiences and personal preferences. All prices have been converted to USD using a rate of 20:1. All the information is for educational purposes only and should not be considered legal advice. Please help support our travel blog by purchasing this guide, which is only $1.99 and available everywhere, including Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and Kobo. ​

Relaxing by the pool, beach hopping and exploring the region’s unique culinary delights may be the staples of living in Puerto Escondido.

​Still, they’re far from the only things to keep you occupied. In fact, it wouldn’t be a stretch to say that this part of Mexico stands up to just about anywhere in the world when it comes to the variety of activities on offer and the number of interesting places to explore. 
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Some things, especially the natural attractions, are seasonal, while others can be done year-round. There’s also a thriving community of expats and locals that are constantly organizing small-scale events and running courses or workshops, most of which can be found on public Facebook and WhatsApp groups. We’ll also discuss some of the best things to do in the surrounding areas, which are a nature lover’s delight, and leave you with some handy insider tips that will help you to beat the crowds and plan according to any budget.

The climate and geography of the region ensure that it is dotted with both fresh and saltwater lagoons. These places are hotspots for biodiversity. Their mangrove ecosystems play host to a wide array of species, including crocodiles and many other reptiles, a stunning variety of birds, and all manner of fish and different marine life. However, an even smaller creature makes these lagoons famous - plankton, the tiny creatures that are the foundation of marine ecosystems. What makes these ones so special is the fact that they create bioluminescence.

While it’s true that many species of plankton can do this, the lagoons in this area are filled with high concentrations of these little critters, making them one of the best places in the world to experience this incredible phenomenon firsthand.
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The closest lagoon to Puerto Escondido where you can do this is Manialtepec, just a short 15 minutes drive away. There are many tour companies in the city that offer bioluminescence trips, which take place exclusively at night as this is when you can actually see the plankton glowing. Most also offer daytime tours for kayaking, paddleboarding, birdwatching and nature excursions.

​As we’ve already mentioned, Puerto Escondido is considered the "surf capital" of Mexico. Whether you’re a seasoned rider of waves or would just like to stand up on a board at least once in your life, you’ll find plenty of opportunities here.

​There are also many freelance instructors advertising their services online and hanging around the beaches. You can also rent boards by the hour or for the entire day once you’re comfortable going out on your own.

Who doesn’t love sea turtles? I think we all know the answer to that question is NOBODY. Yet not everybody is comfortable in the water or with the idea of going snorkeling or scuba diving to seek them out. Fortunately, anyone can experience the magic of turtles in this part of the world. There are several beaches where you can go to release baby turtles, whose nests need to be protected from poachers, into the wild. It’s a truly incredible experience and a vital counterbalancing act that increases these threatened creatures’ chances of survival. It’s also a family-friendly activity that requires no physical exertion and is fun for people of all ages. 

There are a couple of tour operators that offer turtle releases on beaches outside of Puerto Escondido, but the simplest (and cheapest) option is just to head to Playa Bacocho where releases take place most days at 5 PM (depending on whether a new batch of baby turtles is hatching that day or not) at the Vive Mar Turtle Camp. It only costs $5 per person, all of which goes towards keeping the operation running. There is a short talk in Spanish and English before the actual release takes place to teach you how to handle the turtles properly and explain a bit about them, the threats they face and what is being done to protect them.

There are seven species of sea turtles in existence and four of them nest on the Oaxacan coastline. The most prominent by far, however, is the Olive Ridley turtle. In fact, this area is the single most important nesting site in the world for this species, with the annual nesting season seeing over 4.6 million females dragging themselves out of the water to lay their eggs at the two largest nesting sites alone. 
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One of these is a long stretch of beach just under an hour’s drive from Puerto Escondido called Playa Escobilla. The prime nesting season is July - January, where on a day of high activity it’s possible to see tens of thousands of turtles on the beach at any given moment. The cost to enter the sanctuary is $15, which all goes towards maintaining the sanctuary. You’re led by a guide who both gives you interesting information and ensures that you observe the event without disturbing the turtles as you walk among them and watch them lay their eggs from just inches away.

The amazing experiences with marine life don’t have to stop there either! If there is one group of marine animals that is even more beloved than turtles it’s that of the cetaceans, which consists of whales, dolphins and porpoises. Puerto Escondido offers year-round opportunities to see and, when possible, swim with dolphins. The most prominent species in the area are Spinner and Bottlenose dolphins, while it’s also common to swim with turtles and even see them mating in certain seasons. On a lucky day, you might even get to see Orcas/Killer Whales or any number of other less commonly occurring species.
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The Oaxacan coastline is also the southernmost point on the annual migration of Humpback whales that spend their summers feeding in Alaska and Northern Canada and their winters mating and calving in warmer Mexican waters. While there aren’t quite as many whales as you find around the Baja California Peninsula and the season is shorter due to the extra distance they have to travel to get here (January - March as opposed to December - April), the experience of seeing them breaching, slapping their tails and performing other acrobatic maneuvers is just as breathtaking.

While ocean-based activities may be the main attraction in this part of the world, ignoring the glorious tropical landscape and rural delights that surround Puerto Escondido would be a crying shame.

​While horseback riding and hot springs are not really two things you would instinctively lump together, in this case, they combine perfectly to create a unique and memorable experience that provides a real taste of natural surroundings. 

​After being picked up in town and transported to a start point where some friendly, tame horses are already waiting, you’ll be guided by expert riders up the Manialtepec river to the hot springs that share the same name. 

The ride is a couple of hours long and takes you through rural farmland and areas full of indigenous tropical vegetation that cars cannot access. You’ll cross the calmly flowing Manialtepec river multiple times along the way until you eventually arrive at the beautiful hidden spot where the hot springs are located.
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After you’re satisfied with your time in the springs (a few minutes is usually enough as it’s just as warm outside the water as in it) and have refueled with some snacks, you’ll head back down to the ranch and be back in town in time for lunch, with the entire excursion lasting around 5-6 hours. This activity is perfectly suitable for those with little or no experience riding horses. You can book it with Eco Adventures Puerto Escondido or through a smaller company like Experiencias Nativas, who combine the trip with a visit to see how the locals use traditional methods to make tortillas and cheese. 

We have some guiding principles we like to follow when we travel and one of them is to never pass on the opportunity to visit a good waterfall! Besides the always awe-inspiring sight of tons of water cascading down a sheer rockface, they normally offer great swimming opportunities in lovey freshwater pools and are often found in the most scenic locations.

​La Reforma is no exception. Although it’s only around 25 mi (40km) away from Puerto Escondido, the drive takes a little under two hours from Puerto Escondido due to the windy and often gravely nature of the roads, and a not too difficult 10-15 minute walk once you arrive to reach the waterfall itself. You can also get there by taking a colectivo to San Pedro Mixtepec (ask to be let off at the turnoff for La Reforma) and then hopping on a taxi from there. 

Once you arrive at the over 150ft high falls and paying your around 50 cents (10 pesos) entrance fee, you can enjoy swimming in the rock pools below, relaxing by the water’s edge while taking in the whole majestic setting. For $1.50 you can do this from a comfortable lounger or deckchair. There is a small convenience store close to the entrance but we’d suggest taking your own snacks or packing a picnic basket and making a day of it. 
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If you really want to slow down and take it all in, spend the night at one of the cozy cabanas at La Cascada Encantada (The Enchanted Waterfall), situated right at the entrance, where you can lounge in the pool once you’re done with the falls and enjoy a quiet evening close to nature.

Want to read about living in Puerto Escondido? This post is continued here. 

By Brendon Cammell and M. Serrato

Author's Note: No website or company has paid a fee to be mentioned in this blog. Any suggestions you see are based solely on our own experiences and personal preferences. All prices have been converted to USD using a rate of 20:1. All the information is for educational purposes only and should not be considered legal advice. Please help support our travel blog by purchasing this guide, which is only $1.99 and available everywhere, including Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and Kobo. 

Mexico is one of the most popular travel destinations in the world and a magnet for expats, especially from North American neighbors the USA and Canada. Yet only a small fraction of those who visit or relocate to Mexico ever venture beyond the popular hubs of the Riviera Maya in the east, Baja California Sur in the west, and the capital, Mexico City. While there is plenty to see and do in all three of these regions, Mexico is a vast and stunningly diverse country with so much to offer. There are hidden gems in every one of its 32 states, but few shine more brightly than Puerto Escondido.

Puerto Escondido means “hidden port” in Spanish, which fits neatly into the narrative about it flying under the radar. However, it’s far from a backwater. In fact, it’s considered the surfing capital of Mexico and attracts surfers from all over the world. There are multiple surf shops where you can buy or rent surfboards if you’d like to try surfing one of the many popular beaches.
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This city of around 30,000 inhabitants is located in the state of Oaxaca. It’s a region famous for its diverse and enduring indigenous cultures, fantastic culinary traditions and for being the birthplace of the famous Mexican drink Mezcal. 

Fun fact: Did you know that Mezcal is called the “elixir of the gods”? There are several popular distilleries in Puerto Escondido where you can visit and learn about traditional and ancestral distillation processes and taste dozens of different types of Mezcal. 

Flying to Puerto Escondido: We selected this option because we were a little short on time for this trip and wanted to maximize our exploration days. However, we usually love exploring Mexico by car when time permits as there are so many wonderful small towns and little-known sights that you’d never see any other way. Luckily, our co-author Brendon has traveled to and from Puerto Escondido using just about every mode of transport available and filled us in on the best overland travel options. For now, back to the flights...

Like many tourist towns in Mexico, Puerto Escondido boasts its own small ‘international’ airport. In reality, the vast majority of flights arrive from Mexico City, the central hub that connects most regional airports in Mexico to other states and countries. This makes it a simple enough journey from any place that flies to Mexico’s capital, and that list is long. This means you usually only need to make one layover when flying from most major cities in North America and Europe. 

There are usually upwards of eight flights arriving from Mexico City daily, with four different carriers - namely VivaAerobus, Aeromexico, and Volaris. Flight prices are quite reasonable, with the average ‘light’ fare starting at around $60-80 USD for a return ticket, although this can vary drastically depending on how far in advance you book, the dates you wish to fly, and whether you have any checked baggage or special equipment such as a surfboard or golf clubs.

The flight from Mexico City’s Benito Juarez International Airport to Puerto Escondido takes a shade over an hour, meaning you barely have time to reach cruising altitude before beginning your descent. The only other destination with direct flights to Puerto Escondido International Airport is Guadalajara, however, there are usually no more than a couple each week.

While flying to Puerto Escondido is cheap and straightforward, many travelers prefer to take the overland option so that they can take in some of Mexico’s other unique sites and places along the way (and save a few bucks). Some expats even make the epic road trip from the United States or Canada to bring their cars with them when they relocate. It’s a long drive from the US border to the coast of Oaxaca, but one that allows you to truly see the ‘real’ Mexico. However, that’s another long post all on its own. For now, we’ll be concentrating on getting to Puerto Escondido overland from Mexico City and the also not particularly creatively named state capital of Oaxaca, Oaxaca City.

Traveling by bus: If you’re arriving in Mexico by plane and want to travel overland to Puerto Escondido or just about any other destination, you’ll likely end up traveling primarily on ‘luxury’ intercity busses that zig-zag the country and can get you to most cities and even many towns. For starters, most of these intercity busses are quite comfortable, in many cases more so than their North American and European counterparts.

​You can usually expect air conditioning, a comfortable reclining seat, and a clean onboard restroom at a minimum (after a couple of hours winding through the mountains the restroom may not be quite as ship-shape anymore, but someone will get on to clean it at most stops). Bus tickets are also cheap, with a trip from Mexico City to Oaxaca City costing between $25-50 and Oaxaca city to Puerto Escondido around $30. While this may not sound much cheaper than taking a flight, these prices include virtually unlimited luggage, making them a far more affordable option for those who are traveling with multiple bags.

In total, you’re looking at around 18-19 hours of travel time if you take the bus option, with the Mexico City to Oaxaca City trip taking 6.5-8 hours and the Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido route around 10-11 hours (this bus takes you on a roundabout route that also passes through the city of Salina Cruz). There are many intercity bus companies in Mexico, but by far the largest and most well-known is ADO.

​Almost all the bus lines running on the above-mentioned routes are part of the ADO group. These include ADO Platino (the “fanciest” option), ADO GL (another higher quality option) and the standard but still comfortable ADO and OCC lines.

​These minibuses are generally well maintained, clean, and perfectly safe to use. Just keep in mind that you’ll need to wait for the halfway stop to use a restroom. This route also takes you along an extremely windy mountain road whose near 180° bends will test your sea legs as much as any boat ride.

Traveling by car: If you’re coming to Mexico in your own car or picking up a rental once you arrive, the drive to Puerto Escondido from Oaxaca City will take you along the same windy mountain road that the colectivos use. The drive itself is only 162 mi (260 km) but takes a little over six hours due to the never-ending twists and turns of Highway 131. It might be heavy on the stomach but it’s also extremely easy on the eye. On the way, you’ll pass through the stunningly beautiful mountains and valleys of the fertile Madre Sierra region, taking in everything from high altitude forests to tropical vegetation along the way. Despite the windiness of the road, it is generally well maintained and is considered safe to travel on.

If you’re planning on doing this drive on or after 2022, you’ll be able to take advantage of the new Oaxaca - Puerto Escondido federal highway that has been under construction for several years, with the completion date continually being pushed back. However, the current Mexican administration has promised the people of Oaxaca that it will be completed next year. Its official name is the Barranca Larga-Ventanilla Highway and it will more than halve the travel time from the state capital to the coastline, with the journey expected to take around 2.5 hours in total.

If you’ve read any of our other guides or blogs, you’ll know that we are big fans of Airbnb and self-catering accommodation in general. Not only do you get more bang for your buck than you would from a hotel, but you also get to stay in places that feel more like a home than a sterile receptacle for tourists. Whether you’re searching for a place to live, doing research about relocating or just visiting, self-catering accommodations in houses or apartments can help you to get a real feel for the place you’re visiting.

Like most coastal areas in Mexico frequented by tourists, there are certainly some nice hotels and resorts in Puerto Escondido, however, the self-catering vibe is definitely dominant. 
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We stayed in a place called Suites Casitas and were very happy with our choice. It was within walking distance of several beautiful beaches (more on those later) and had everything we needed for a comfortable stay - including a pool, a beautiful outside area with sitting space, and most importantly a clean and comfortable living area that was suitable for a family. The location was also fantastic. It’s right on the “Rinconada”, the main strip in the area we stayed in, called Bacocho. 

Please note: for a “main strip” it was by no means loud, overly busy, and thronging with drunken tourists. There are plenty of good restaurant options, a couple of bars and multiple laundromats, which we found a little strange as almost everyone seemed to be wearing nothing but swimsuits.
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When choosing a place to stay in Puerto Escondido, you need to take into account not just the kind of accommodation you want to stay in, but which area you’d like to be in as well. While location is important no matter where you are, Puerto Escondido is virtually split in two.

​Zicatela is a lively area that is popular with tourists and locals alike. It takes its name from the awesome 2.2 mi (3.5 km) long Zicatela beach, its defining feature. The word Zicatela means “place of the long thorns” in the indigenous Náhuatl language. There are more food and drink options here than in any other area of Puerto Escondido. It’s also the area with the most B&Bs, hostels and hotels. The prices and quality of accommodation range from backpacker friendly to boutique chic, meaning you’ll encounter an eclectic mix of people as well. 

Head south to the bottom of the beach and you’ll arrive at Punta Zicatela or “La Punta” (the point). With its unpaved streets, vegan restaurants and yoga studios, it’s undoubtedly the “hippy heartland” of Puerto Escondido. If you’re the kind of person who likes to wake up surrounded by tropical vegetation and roll out of bed onto the beach, you’ll find several BnBs and hotels in La Punta that offer exactly that. Just keep in mind that the beaches in this part of town are best for surfing, not swimming.

Both La Punta and Zicatela play host to a vibrant nightlife scene that includes plenty of live music, DJs and beach parties. This means that nights can be quite noisy if you stay near the main strip. Add to this the fact that it’s not uncommon to be woken up at the crack of dawn to the sound of roosters and you can see why these two areas are most suited to those getting up early to surf or do yoga and staying up late to enjoy the nightlife.

As we already mentioned, Bacocho is the area we decided to stay in when we visited Puerto Escondido. In contrast to Zicatela and La Punta, it’s known for having a quiet and laid-back atmosphere. It’s primarily a residential neighborhood where the streets are lined with fruit trees and gorgeous flowers. The main attractions in the area are the Rinconada, where you’ll find restaurants, coffee shops, bars and shops, and the multiple beaches that are within walking distance from any part of the neighborhood. We’ll discuss these in further detail in our dedicated ‘Puerto Escondido Beaches’ section. For now, let’s continue to focus on Bacocho itself.

While it is possible to find budget accommodation in the area, in general, this neighborhood is best for those looking to rent a house or apartment or stay in a boutique hotel. A quick search on Airbnb or Google maps (zoom the map in so that it only covers the area you’re interested in) will bring up plenty of options suitable for single travelers, couples or families and groups. Many of the properties in Bacocho have a pool and a large rooftop terrace. Both of these features are really helpful when it comes to staying fresh during the day, especially during the slightly warmer and more humid months from May to October. 
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In general, you can find all the basic household necessities and food you may need at one of the small tienditas (little shops) that are scattered throughout the area. However, neither Bacocho nor Zicatela have a full-sized supermarket or market. For those, you’ll need to head into the center of town, which is right between the two neighborhoods and takes just 5 minutes to reach by taxi or around 25 minutes walking. There are also plenty of options for accommodation in the central parts of the city like Reforma and Hidalgo, with the latter close to the Playa Principal (main beach) and a couple of other beaches that are frequented mainly by locals. The prices are a little lower in these areas as they cater more to the local market.

Oaxaca state is widely considered the culinary heart of Mexico. Each year, chefs and food lovers from all over the world come to explore its myriad flavors and unique traditions. Oaxaca produces high volumes of coffee, cacao and vanilla. The markets are filled with wide varieties of fruits and vegetables, including quite a few you’ve likely never heard of or tasted - most of which are totally delicious. 

You’ll also encounter even stranger fare such as fried chapulines (crickets), gusanos rojos (red worms) and the seasonal delicacy of chicatanas (a type of leaf-cutter ant). There’s also mole (a complex sauce that comes in near-infinite varieties), huitlacoche (an edible fungus that grows on corn) and of course, the agave-based drink Mezcal.

Oaxaca City is the undoubted center of all of this deliciousness and a melting pot for the diverse culinary traditions found throughout the state. If food is your thing, we highly suggest you plan some time there when creating your itinerary or make the trip up from the coast once you’re settled in if you’re relocating to the area. That said, you can also find all of the above-mentioned goodies and much more, even in humble Puerto Escondido. In the rest of this section, we’ll fill you in on some of the best restaurants in the city, coffee shops, shopping at the open-air market and finding street food.

​The restaurant scene in Puerto Escondido draws much from Oaxaca’s rich ingredients and culinary traditions while also mirroring the diverse mix of people that can be found here. Those looking for vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free or healthy choices won’t be disappointed either. In general, there is a good mixture of high-end establishments and everyday options that offer excellent quality at affordable prices. Here are our top suggestions for eating out in Puerto Escondido:

​They offer breakfast, lunch and dinner service, which is rare in Mexico where many places only open for either the first or second half of the day. The food is homey, hearty and tasty - with the Mexican dishes cooked in an authentic “abuelita” (grandmother) style. Prices are good and the portions are extremely generous. The only real downside to eating here is that there can be queues to get a table during busy periods, although you normally don’t have to wait very long as their turnaround time is quite fast.

Cafe Azul ($) - Cheap, wholesome and delicious Mexican food and breakfasts cooked in a homey style. This hidden gem is almost always packed with locals, a great sign no matter where you are in the world. Located in Bacocho. (address: CALLE LAMBYETECO ESQ, GUELATAO, FRACC. BACOCHO 71983 Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico).

We’d love to review all our favorite eateries in Puerto Escondido individually, but there just isn’t enough space for that in this blog post. We cover several more locations, including several coffee shops in our Puerto Escondido guide (which is a much more expanded version of this blog post, and available here).  

Of all the amazing attractions Puerto Escondido has to offer, its beaches are the sandy, sunswept jewels in the crown. In total, you have seven to choose from, ranging in size from the small protected bays of Playa Coral and Carrizalillo to the long, wide stretches of Playa Zicatela and Bacocho. 
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Whether you’re an expert surfer, wouldn’t mind learning to ride a wave, fancy a spot of snorkeling, prefer a relaxing dip and some sunbathing or simply want to stroll down a quiet strip of sand while enjoying the waves and a gorgeous sunset, Puerto Escondido has you covered. Here is some info about each beach, including which activities they’re best for and how busy they get:

Playa Zicatela (Surfer’s Paradise): The most well-known beach in Puerto Escondido plays host to the country’s most famous wave, the Mexican Pipeline. It’s this wave that makes the city Mexico’s surf Mecca and attracts thousands of surfers a year, especially in the big wave season during the Northern Hemisphere summer when the southern swells kick into full force.

There are a couple of surf and bodyboarding contests held on the beach during this period. However, the power of the waves and strength of the undertow on Ziactela also means it’s unsuitable for swimming. Many unprepared tourists need to be rescued by lifeguards each year. 

​The biggest breaks are found at the north of the beach. Those looking for something a bit less advanced can head south to La Punta, where the waves range from small enough for beginners during winter months to an intermediate level during the big wave season. Non-surfers should stick to long walks, enjoying a few drinks with friends or strangers (yes, drinking is allowed on most beaches in Mexico) and taking in the sunsets or sunrises while watching the surfers get smashed. 

To reach Playa Carrizalillo you’ll need to walk down (and back up) a relatively long and steep set of stairs. This can be a bit tough in the middle of the day, especially if you’re a little out of shape or not accustomed to the heat. That said, anyone can do it, and we’d highly advise that you do. The view from the top of the stairs is one of the best photo ops in town, with the beautiful beach, palm trees and blue waters below framed perfectly by the bay.

​Due to its insane natural beauty, suitability for swimming and relatively modest size, Carrizalillo can get a little crowded, especially in the afternoons. We suggest going in the morning while it’s still quiet, but even later in the day it’s never so full that it becomes unpleasant.

​Let’s just get this out of the way- Yes, Puerto Escondido is the kind of place that has so many great beaches that they warrant an entire section in a travel guide. We cover a few more beaches in our guide, including Playa Bacocho, Playa Coral, Playa Principal and Playa Manzanillo. (Part 2 of this post is continued here).